Logistically, I could have done with a bit more information and in a country as expensive as Norway a little help with making your cash stretch can mean more jumps, more beers, more burgers.
The intention of this blog is to provide logistical information about getting to Lysebotn for jumpers and hikers travelling to Norway from foreign countries. No technical information about making BASE jumps in the area will be included but I will provide links where appropriate.
WHERE
Kjerag is located above Lysebotn, a village of the municipality of Forsand at the Lysefjord in Rogaland county in the southwest of Norway. All of the jumping and hiking that takes place around Kjerag is accessed for the most part from Lysebotn. Hiking to the exits and almost all of the marked hikes in the area start after a 15-20 minute drive up "the hill". The Kjerag landing area is located roughly 2km west along the Fjord from the Lysebotn waterfront. A boat ride is the only way to get back from the landing as there is no path. See below for more details.
ACCESS
After arriving at Sola airport in the city of Stavanger a bus will drop you down-town (including the ferry terminal) for roughly 90NOK and takes about 20 minutes. Getting to Lysebotn by car takes about 2 hours but more commonly by a number of ferries from the ferry terminal - Fiskepirterminalen, in downtown Stavanger at Dock 13 and takes 2-4 hours depending on the ferry. If you are a BASE jumper then you don't need a car in Lysebotn. Hikers will find it tricky but will manage without a car also. The benefit to hiring a car is that you are not at the mercy of the ferry timetable, which if your trip is short (a few days) and you can afford it, might be a better option. There are also options for catching a bus to the Lauvvik ferry quay and then getting on the ferry to Lysebotn.
There are two ferry companies that operate from the ferry terminal.
- Kolumbus - is the public transport company in Rogaland county and operates the fast ferry to Lysebotn, taking about 2 hours - one way. Runs once a day in each direction. They take credit cards and you pay on the ferry, once under-way. Cost one-way is roughly 200NOK. It's a small ferry which also fits a few cars, but ask at the ferry terminal desk if you can't work out where to board. Timetable can be found under the "route" link or a direct link here. Use Google translate to work it out if your Norwegian isn't up to scratch.
- Tide - is Norway's largest public land and sea transport provider and operates the car ferries and slow ferries to Lysebotn taking about 4 hours - one way. Runs twice a day in both directions.
STAVANGER
Due to arrival times at the airport and departure times of the ferry it may be necessary to stay in Stavanger for a night either side of your trip out to Lysebotn. I followed a recommendation for a hotel and stayed at the Best Western which is about a 10 minute walk from the ferry and although it was convenient I paid 891NOK which is a lot (that included the BASE jumper discount). Other options - Prices can start around 250NOK for a basic hostel and after talking to people I realised that I paid too much. If you go for the cheaper option and stay outside the city make sure it has a bus stop that will take you to the ferry terminal. The bus service is well connected and the driver's are actually helpful (imagine that!). Taxis aren't cheap but are there if you get stuck. I will not recommend any specific places to stay and will leave that up to you.
EATING & DRINKING
If you're going to be in Lysebotn for more that two days (not recommended anyway) you'll want to buy food in Stavanger and take it with you. All of the accommodation options in Lysebotn have cooking facilities in the form of a kitchen or a cooking room (for the camping). Supermarket food in Norway is on the expensive side but not extortionately so, however, a few units of currency higher on everything you buy pushes the total up there. Be smart about what you buy. You can eat and buy beer at a few places in Lysebotn (Olav's, The Tourist Cabin) so if you run out of food (or just can't be bothered cooking) you can still make jumps the next day if the weather is good and you don't want to go back into Stavanger.
There's a grocery store called KIWI in the Magasin Blaa shopping center next to the ferry terminal in Stavanger which should have everything you need. It is also a good place to get some coffee, free WIFI and stare at the enormous fish tank while waiting for the ferry.
ACCOMMODATION
- Tourist Cabin - Lysefjorden Turisthytte is a group of grey buildings situated about 100m from the dock in Lysebotn that the Stavanger Trekking Association rents from Lyse-Energy. They have recently opened and provide dorm style and private rooms, all with bathrooms, showers, etc. There is a communal kitchen with a fridge, cooker and everything you need to cook your own meals. They also have a cafe/restaurant where you can get food (and beer, and ice cream) at any time of the day. The rooms are very clean, the vibe is chilled and the staff are very friendly. Prices range from roughly 250NOK for a dorm up to roughly 800NOK for a double. Breakfast is included (and it's pretty good). Free WIFI.
- Tourist Camp - Lysebotn tourist camp is the original accommodation that includes the White House, camping, B&B, etc.
Depending on the length of your stay and the weather, you could mix and match accommodation. i.e. after 5 days of camping in bad weather it might be nice to book a dorm room for a few nights. It is a small village and with the opening of the tourist cabin there are plenty of options for staying in Lysebotn and staff are generally flexible. Credit cards and cash are accepted.
BASE JUMPING
***read everything on the SBK website***
Stavanger BASE Klubb oversees and regulates all BASE jumping that takes place in the Lysebotn area and it's run more like a dropzone. The Klubb is a non-profit organisation but it still has costs to cover and therefore it will cost you to jump there. It is more like visiting a cheap dropzone (but waaaaay more fun) rather than the bandit jumps you make from your local "free" objects. One reason for this is that BASE in Norway is considered a legitimate sport just like climbing and paragliding. With this comes some rules, but they are genuinely in place for the safety of the jumpers (and the rescuers). Smashing yourself up on these 3000ft cliffs does not present an easy job for the people rescuing you and considering the rescue is free, following a few common sense rules isn't too much of a trade off.
When you arrive in Lysebotn you need to register at the BASE Klubb which is located directly to the left of the first building that you see when you step off the ferry.
Make sure you have all of the necessary requirements to jump, details are on the SBK website, there's no use trying to bullshit the instructors, they'll simply send you away.
The BASE Klubb rents out BASE gear, runs first jump courses and also has a well stocked BASE specific gear store, selling various bits and pieces.
To make jumps from Kjerag takes:
- a 25 minute van ride up "the hill"
- a 2 hour hike up and over to Kjerag (only 1 hour for Smellveggan)
- 10 minute boat ride back to the dock
The BASE Klubb runs a van and boat 3 times a day, so the most jumps you can expect to do a day is 3 with the last load being a Smellveggan load. This is a good pace if you are in reasonable shape and allows time to pack, eat and chill.
A paper punch card system is in place to pay for each van and boat ride you take.
They take credit cards and cash.
NOTES
- Cash - If you are carrying in your food then you will not need a lot of cash in Lysebotn. Accommodation, cafe food, beer and the BASE Klubb all accept cards.
- Weather - There's not much to do in Lysebotn when the weather is bad. Take a book and laptop with lots of movies. The tourist cabin has a sweet lounge room above the dinning room where you can chill out.
